Use of polyamide polymer in a mascara composition comprising at least one solid substance having a melting point of 45 c or greater

ABSTRACT

Abstract of the Disclosure 
         
   Use of a mascara composition comprising at least one structuring polymer chosen from polymers of following formula (I):
   
   
                 
in which n denotes a number of amide units, such that the number of ester groups represents from 10% to 50% of the total number of ester and amide groups; R 1  is, in each case, independently an alkyl or alkenyl group having at least 4 carbon atoms; R 2  independently represents, in each case, a C 4  to C 42  hydrocarbonaceous group, provided that 50% of the R 2  groups represent a C 30  to C 42  hydrocarbonaceous group; R 3   independently represents, in each case, an organic group provided with at least 2 carbon atoms, with hydrogen atoms and optionally with one or more oxygen or nitrogen atoms; and R 4  independently represents, in each case, a hydrogen atom, a C 1  to C 10  alkyl group or a direct bond to R 3  or another R 4 , so that the nitrogen atom to which both R 3  and R 4   are bonded forms part of a heterocyclic structure defined by R 4 -N-R 3 , with at least 50% of the R 4  groups representing a hydrogen atom and at least one solid substance that has a metling point of 45°C or greater.

Detailed Description of the Invention Detailed Description

[0001] The present invention relates to compositions and methods forcare of, for treating and for making-up for the skin, including thescalp, and/or for the lips, of human beings, and/or for other keratinousmaterials, such as keratinous fibers, comprising at least one liquidfatty phase structured with at least one structuring polymer containinga hetero atom. This invention may be in the form of a stablecomposition.

[0002] Structured liquid fatty phases in cosmetic or dermatologicalproducts are known in the art. As used herein, "structured" means gelledand/or rigidified. Structured liquid fatty phases may be found in solidcompositions such as deodorants, balms, lip compositions, concealerproducts, and cast foundations.

[0003] As used herein, "liquid fatty phase" means a fatty phase which isliquid at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg,i.e. 101 KPa) and which comprises at least one fatty substance, such asan oil, which is liquid at room temperature and not soluble in water. Ifthe liquid fatty phase comprises two or more fatty substances, theyshould be mutually compatible, i.e. forming a homogeneous phasemacroscopically.

[0004] Structured liquid fatty phases may make it possible to controlthe exudation of the liquid fatty phase from the solid compositions ofwhich they are components, including exudation in a wet or hotatmosphere or environment. Structuring of the liquid fatty phase mayalso limit bleeding of this phase outside of the intended area ofapplication and especially into wrinkles and fine lines after it hasbeen deposited, for example, on keratinous material. As used herein,"keratinous material" is meant to comprise hair, lips, skin, scalp andsuperficial body growths such as eyelashes, eyebrows and nails."Keratinous fiber" includes hair, eyelashes, and eyebrows. A largemigration of a liquid fatty phase comprising coloring agents such as inlip or eyeshadow compositions may lead to an unaesthetic effect aroundthe lips or eyes which may accentuate the wrinkles and fine lines.Consumers have cited this migration as a drawback of conventional lipand eyeshadow compositions.

[0005] U.S. 5,783,657, for example, describes structuring a compositionby using a polyamide in a stick form. However, such a stick compositionis usually not mechanically and/or thermally stable. Indeed, a part ofthe oil contained in such a composition tends to go outside or exudefrom the stick. Further, when the stick is applied on the skin or lips,said stick may be broken.

[0006] The inventors have found that the use of specific structuringpolymers, defined more fully below, such as polyamide polymers, in atleast one liquid fatty phase and the addition of a solid substance thathas a melting point of about 45°C, for example about 47°C, or greatermay make it possible to structure a composition comprising at least oneliquid fatty phase while also resulting in a stable composition. As usedherein, "about" before a number given as a melting point means the rangeor natural variation in the melting point. The range or variation may bedue to impurities, crystallinity, and/or measurement method andconditions.

[0007] In one embodiment, the invention provides a compositioncomprising a liquid fatty phase which comprises: (i) at least onestructuring polymer comprising a polymer skeleton which comprises atleast one hydrocarbon-based repeating unit comprising at least onehetero atom; and (ii) at least one solid substance that has a meltingpoint of about 45°C or greater, wherein the at least one solid substanceis not stearalkonium hectorite, silica, talc, or paraffin wax. In afurther embodiment, the at least one solid substance that has a meltingpoint of about 45°C or greater is an organic solid substance.

[0008] As used herein, the expression "at least one" means one or moreand thus includes individual components as well asmixtures/combinations.

[0009] In another embodiment, the invention provides a compositioncomprising a liquid fatty phase which comprises: (i) at least onestructuring polymer, wherein said at least one structuring polymer is atleast one polyamide polymer comprising a polymer skeleton whichcomprises at least one amide repeating unit; and (ii) at least one solidsubstance that has a melting point of 45°C or greater, wherein the atleast one solid substance is not stearalkonium hectorite, silica, talc,or paraffin wax. In further embodiment, the at least one solid substancethat has a melting point of about 45°C or greater is an organic solidsubstance.

[0010] In yet another embodiment, the invention provides an anhydrouscomposition comprising a liquid fatty phase which comprises: (i) atleast one structuring polymer comprising a polymer skeleton whichcomprises at least one hydrocarbon-based repeating unit comprising atleast one hetero atom; and (ii) at least one solid substance that has amelting point of about 45°C or greater, wherein the at least one solidsubstance is not stearalkonium hectorite.

[0011] The invention also provides a composition comprising at least oneliquid fatty phase which comprises: (i) at least one structuring polymercomprising a polymer skeleton which comprises at least onehydrocarbon-based repeating unit comprising at least one hetero atom;and at least one terminal fatty chain chosen from alkyl chains andalkenyl chains, wherein said at least one terminal fatty chain is bondedto said polymer skeleton via at least one linking group; and (ii) atleast one solid substance that has a melting point of about 45°C orgreater.

[0012] In one embodiment, the at least one structuring polymer ispresent in an amount effective to provide structure to said fatty phase.The at least one structuring polymer and the at least one solidsubstance are present in a combined amount to provide the compositionwith stability. In a further embodiment, the at least one structuringpolymer and the at least one solid substance provide resistance toshear. In a further embodiment, the at least one structuring polymer andthe at least one solid substance provide the composition with stabilityand provide resistance to shear.

[0013] The invention also provides a method for providing stability to acomposition comprising a liquid fatty phase, comprising: including insaid liquid fatty phase at least one structuring polymer comprising apolymer skeleton which comprises at least one hydrocarbon-basedrepeating unit comprising at least one hetero atom, such as astructuring polymer comprising a polyamide skeleton. For example, thepolymer skeleton comprises at least one end group with at least onechain chosen from alkyl chains comprising at least four carbon atoms andalkenyl chains comprising at least four carbon atoms, bonded to the atleast one polyamide skeleton via at least one linking group. The polymerskeleton may comprise at least one terminal group and/or at least onependant group with at least one chain chosen from alkyl chainscomprising at least four carbon atoms and alkenyl chains comprising atleast four carbon atoms, bonded to any carbon or nitrogen of thepolyamide skeleton via at least one linking group. The at least onestructuring polymer is present in an amount effective to providestructure to said fatty phase. At least one solid substance that has amelting point of about 45°C, for example about 47°C, or greater is alsoincluded in the composition. The components may be added in any order.The at least one structuring polymer and the at least one solidsubstance are present in a combined amount effective to provide thecomposition with stability.

[0014] It is to be understood that both the foregoing generaldescription and the following detailed description are exemplary andexplanatory only and are not restrictive of the invention as claimed.

[0015] One subject of the invention is cosmetic and/or dermatologicalcompositions which are useful for the care, make-up and/or treating ofat least one keratinous material, including at least one keratinousfiber, and nails which may be of suitable hardness to allow preparationof these compositions in the form of a stick or other structured formwhich may be stable.

[0016] As defined herein, stability is tested by placing the compositionin a controlled environment chamber for 8 weeks at 25°C. In this test,the physical condition of the sample is inspected as it is placed in thechamber. The sample is then inspected again at 24 hours, 3 days, 1 week,2 weeks, 4 weeks and 8 weeks. At each inspection, the sample is examinedfor abnormalities in the composition such as bending or leaning if thecomposition is in stick form, phase separation, melting, or syneresis.As used herein syneresis is the appearance of droplets on the surface ofa composition that are visible to the naked eye. The stability isfurther tested by repeating the 8 week test at 4°C, 37°C, 45°C, 50°C andunder freeze-thaw conditions. A composition is considered to lackstability if in any of these tests an abnormality that impedesfunctioning of the composition is observed. The skilled artisan willreadily recognize an abnormality that impedes functioning of acomposition based on the intended application.

[0017] The invention applies not only to make-up products for at leastone keratinous material such as lip compositions, lip pencils,foundations including foundations which may be cast in the form of astick or a dish, concealer products, temporary tattoo products,eyeliners, mascara bars, but also to body hygiene products such asdeodorant sticks, and to care products and products for treating atleast one keratinous material, such as sunscreen and anti-sun productswhich may be in stick form. The present invention may be in the form ofmascara product including mascara bars, an eyeliner product, afoundation product, a lipstick product, a blush for cheeks or eyelids, adeodorant product, a make-up product for the body, a make-up-removingproduct, an eyeshadow product, a face powder product, a concealerproduct, a treating shampoo product, a nail varnish, a hair conditioningproduct, a sun screen, colorant for the skin or hair, or skin careformula such as, for example, anti-pimple or shaving cut formulas. Asdefined herein, a deodorant product is a personal hygiene product anddoes not relate to care, make-up or treatment of keratin materials,including keratin fibers and nails.

[0018] For example, the composition of the present invention may be in aform chosen from a paste, a solid, a gel, and a cream. It may be anemulsion, i.e., an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion, a multipleemulsion, e.g., an oil-in-water-in-oil emulsion or water-in-oil-in-wateremulsion, or a solid, rigid or supple gel, including anhydrous gels. Inone embodiment, the composition of the invention is anhydrous. Thecomposition of the invention may, for example, comprise an external orcontinuous fatty phase. In another embodiment, the composition of theinvention is transparent or clear, including for example, a compositionwithout pigments. The composition can also be in a form chosen from atranslucent anhydrous gel and a transparent anhydrous gel. Thecomposition can also be a molded composition or cast as a stick or adish. The composition in one embodiment is a solid such as a moldedstick or a poured stick.

[0019] The structuring of the liquid fatty phase can be modifiedaccording to the nature of the polymer containing a hetero atom and ofthe solid substance used, and may be such that a rigid structure in theform of a rod or stick with good mechanical strength is obtained. Whenthese rods or sticks are colored, they may make it possible, afterapplication, to obtain a uniformly colored glossy deposit which does notmigrate and which has good staying power or long-wearing properties, inparticular of the color, over time. The composition may contain at leastone structuring polymer and at least one solid substance.

[0020] In one embodiment, the composition of the invention is acomposition for the lips such as a lipstick composition, e.g., in stickform.

Structuring polymer

[0021] In one embodiment, the at least one structuring polymer in thecomposition of the invention is a solid that is not deformable at roomtemperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 101 KPa). Ina further embodiment, the at least one structuring polymer is capable ofstructuring the composition without opacifying it. The inventors thinkthat is due to the fact that the polymer does not crystallize. Moreover,the structuration of the liquid phase is due to hydrogen interactionsbetween two molecules of polymer and/or between the polymer and theliquid fatty phase. As defined above, the at least one structuringpolymer of the present invention comprises a polymer skeleton comprisingat least one hydrocarbon-based repeating unit comprising at least onehetero atom. In one embodiment, the at least one structuring polymerfurther comprises at least one terminal fatty chain chosen from alkyland alkenyl chains, such as of at least 4 atoms, and further such ascomprising 8 to 120 carbon atoms, bonded to the polymer skeleton via atleast one linking group. The terminal fatty chain may, for example, befunctionalized. The at least one structuring polymer may also furthercomprise at least one pendant fatty chain chosen from alkyl and alkenylchains, such as of at least 4 atoms, and further such as comprising 8 to120 carbon atoms, bonded to any carbon or hetero atom of the polymerskeleton via at least one linking group. The pendant fatty chain may,for example, be functionalized. The at least one structuring polymer maycomprise both at least one pendant fatty chain and at least one terminalfatty chain as defined above, and one or both types of chains can befunctionalized.

[0022] In one embodiment, the structuring polymer comprises at least twohydrocarbon-based repeating units. As a further example, the structuringpolymer comprises at least three hydrocarbon-based repeating units andas an even further example, the at least three repeating units areidentical.

[0023] As used herein, "functionalized" means comprising at least onefunctional group. Non-limiting examples of functional groups includehydroxyl groups, ether groups, oxyalkylene groups, polyoxyalkylenegroups, carboxylic acid groups, amine groups, amide groups, halogencontaining groups, including fluoro and perfluoro groups, halogen atoms,ester groups, siloxane groups and polysiloxane groups.

[0024] For purposes of the invention, the expression "functionalizedchain" means, for example, an alkyl chain comprising at least onefunctional (reactive) group chosen, for example, from those recitedabove. For example, in one embodiment, the hydrogen atoms of at leastone alkyl chain may be substituted at least partially with fluorineatoms.

[0025] According to the invention, these chains may be linked directlyto the polymer skeleton or via an ester function or a perfluoro group.

[0026] For the purposes of the invention, the term "polymer" means acompound containing at least 2 repeating units, such as, for example, acompound containing at least 3 repeating units, which may be identical.

[0027] As used herein, the expression "hydrocarbon-based repeating unit"includes a repeating unit comprising from 2 to 80 carbon atoms, such as,for example, from 2 to 60 carbon atoms. The at least onehydrocarbon-based repeating unit may also comprise oxygen atoms. Thehydrocarbon-based repeating unit may be chosen from saturated andunsaturated hydrocarbon-based repeating units which in turn may bechosen from linear hydrocarbon-based repeating units, branchedhydrocarbon-based repeating units and cyclic hydrocarbon-based repeatingunits. The at least one hydrocarbon-based repeating unit may comprise,for example, at least one hetero atom that is part of the polymerskeleton, i.e., not pendant. The at least one hetero atom may be chosen,for example, from nitrogen, sulphur, and phosphorus. For example, the atleast one hetero atom may be a nitrogen atom, such as a non-pendantnitrogen atom. In another embodiment, the at least one hydrocarbon-basedrepeating unit may comprise at least one hetero atom with the provisothat the at least one hetero atom is not nitrogen. In anotherembodiment, the at least one hetero atom is combined with at least oneatom chosen from oxygen and carbon to form a hetero atom group. In oneembodiment, the hetero atom group comprises a carbonyl group.

[0028] The at least one repeating unit comprising at least one heteroatom may be chosen, for example, from amide groups, carbamate groups,and urea groups. In one embodiment, the at least one repeating unitcomprises amide groups forming a polyamide skeleton. In anotherembodiment, the at least one repeating unit comprises carbamate groupsand/or urea groups forming a polyurethane skeleton, a polyurea skeletonand/or a polyurethane-polyurea skeleton. The pendant chains, forexample, can be linked directly to at least one of the hetero atoms ofthe polymer skeleton. In yet another embodiment, the at least onehydrocarbon-based repeating unit may comprise at least one hetero atomgroup with the proviso that the at least one hetero atom group is not anamide group. In one embodiment, the polymer skeleton comprises at leastone repeating unit chosen from silicone units and oxyalkylene units, theat least one repeating unit being between the hydrocarbon-basedrepeating units.

[0029] In one embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises atleast one structuring polymer with nitrogen atoms, such as amide, urea,or carbamate units, such as amide units, and at least one polar oil.

[0030] In one embodiment, in the at least one structuring polymer, thepercentage of the total number of fatty chains ranges from 40% to 98%relative to the total number of repeating units and fatty chains, and asa further example, from 50% to 95%. In a further embodiment wherein thepolymer skeleton is a polyamide skeleton, in the at least onestructuring polymer, the percentage of the total number of fatty chainsranges from 40% to 98% relative to the total number of all amide unitsand fatty chains, and as a further example, from 50% to 95%.

[0031] In a further embodiment, the nature and proportion of the atleast one hydrocarbon-based repeating unit comprising at least onehetero atom depends on the nature of a liquid fatty phase of thecomposition and is, for example, similar to the nature of the fattyphase. For example, not to be limited as to theory, the more polar thehydrocarbon-based repeating units containing a hetero atom, and in highproportion, which corresponds to the presence of several hetero atoms,the greater the affinity of the at least one structuring polymer topolar oils. Conversely, the more non-polar, or even apolar, and lesserin proportion the hydrocarbon-based repeating units containing a heteroatom, the greater the affinity of the polymer for apolar oils.

[0032] In another embodiment, the invention is drawn to a structuredcomposition containing at least one liquid fatty phase structured withat least one structuring polymer, wherein the at least one structuringpolymer is a polyamide comprising a polymer skeleton comprising at leastone amide repeating unit and optionally at least one pendant fatty chainand/or at least one terminal chain that are optionally functionalizedand comprise from 8 to 120 carbon atoms, bonded to at least one of theamide repeating units via at least one linking group. The liquid fattyphase further contains at least one solid substance for hardening theliquid fatty phase. The at least one liquid fatty phase, the at leastone structuring polyamide and the at least one solid substance togetherform a physiologically acceptable medium.

[0033] When the structuring polymer has amide repeating units, thependant fatty chains may be linked to at least one of the nitrogen atomsin the amide repeating units.

[0034] The structuring polymer, for example the polyamide polymer, mayhave a weight-average molecular mass of less than 100,000, such as lessthan 50,000. In another embodiment, the weight-average molecular massmay range from 1000 to 30,000, such as from 2000 to 20,000, further suchas from 2000 to 10,000.

[0035] However, this weight-average molecular mass can be present up to500 000 and even up to 1 000 000.

[0036] The structuring polymer, as for example the polyamide polymer, innon soluble in water or in an aqueous phase. In another embodiment thestructuring polymer has non ionic group.

[0037] As discussed, the at least one structuring polymer may, forexample, be chosen from polyamide polymers. A polyamide polymer maycomprise, for example, a polymer skeleton which comprises at least oneamide repeating unit, i.e., a polyamide skeleton. In one embodiment, thepolyamide skeleton may further comprise at least one terminal fattychain chosen from alkyl chains, for example, alkyl chains comprising atleast four carbon atoms, and alkenyl chains, for example, alkenyl chainscomprising at least four carbon atoms, bonded to the at least onepolyamide skeleton via at least one linking group, and/or at least onependant fatty chain chosen from alkyl chains, for example, alkyl chainscomprising at least four carbon atoms, and alkenyl chains, for example,alkenyl chains comprising at least four carbon atoms, bonded to the atleast one polyamide skeleton via at least one linking group. In oneembodiment, the polyamide skeleton may comprise at least one terminalfatty chain chosen from fatty chains comprising 8 to 120 carbon atoms,such as, for example, 12 to 68 carbon atoms, bonded to the at least onepolyamide skeleton via at least one linking group and/or at least onependant fatty chain chosen from fatty chains comprising 8 to 120 carbonatoms, such as, for example, 12 to 68 carbon atoms, bonded to the atleast one polyamide skeleton via at least one linking group, such asbonded to any carbon or nitrogen of the polyamide skeleton via the atleast one linking group. In one embodiment, the at least one linkinggroup is chosen from single bonds and urea, urethane, thiourea,thiourethane, thioether, thioester, ester, ether and amine groups. Thebond is, for example, an ester bond. In one embodiment, these polymerscomprise a fatty chain at each end of the polymer skeleton, such as thepolyamide skeleton.

[0038] In one embodiment, due to the presence of at least one chain, thepolyamide polymers may be readily soluble in oils (i.e.,water-immiscible liquid compounds) and thus may give macroscopicallyhomogeneous compositions even with a high content (at least 25%) of thepolyamide polymers, unlike certain polymers of the prior art that do notcontain such alkyl or alkenyl chains at the end of the polyamideskeleton. As defined herein, a composition is soluble if it has asolubility of greater than 0.01 g per 100 ml of solution at 25°C.

[0039] In a further embodiment, the polyamide polymers can be chosenfrom polymers resulting from at least one polycondensation reactionbetween at least one acid chosen from dicarboxylic acids comprising atleast 32 carbon atoms, such as 32 to 44 carbon atoms, and at least oneamine chosen from diamines comprising at least 2 carbon atoms, such asfrom 2 to 36 carbon atoms, and triamines comprising at least 2 carbonatoms, such as from 2 to 36 carbon atoms. The at least one dicarboxylicacids can, for example, be chosen from dimers of at least one fatty acidcomprising at least 16 carbon atoms, such as oleic acid, linoleic acidand linolenic acid. The at least one amine can, for example, be chosenfrom diamines, such as ethylenediamine, hexylenediamine,hexamethylenediamine, phenylenediamine and triamines, such asethylenetriamine.

[0040] The polyamide polymers may also be chosen from polymerscomprising at least one terminal carboxylic acid group. The at least oneterminal carboxylic acid group can, for example, be esterified with atleast one alcohol chosen from monoalcohols comprising at least 4 carbonatoms. For example, the at least one alcohol can be chosen frommonoalcohols comprising from 10 to 36 carbon atoms. In a furtherembodiment, the monoalcohols can comprise from 12 to 24 carbon atoms,such as from 16 to 24 carbon atoms, and for example 18 carbon atoms.

[0041] In one embodiment, the at least one polyamide polymer may bechosen from those described in U.S. Patent No. 5,783,657, the disclosureof which is incorporated herein by reference, which are polymers offormula (I):

[0042]

[0043] in which:

[0044] - n is an integer which represents the number of amide units suchthat the number of ester groups present in said at least one polyamidepolymer ranges from 10% to 50% of the total number of all said estergroups and all said amide groups comprised in said at least onepolyamide polymer;

[0045] - R¹, which are identical or different, are each chosen fromalkyl groups comprising at least 4 carbon atoms and alkenyl groupscomprising at least 4 carbon atoms. In one embodiment, the alkyl groupcomprises from 4 to 24 carbon atoms and the alkenyl group comprises from4 to 24 carbon atoms;

[0046] - R², which are identical or different, are each chosen from C₄to C₄₂ hydrocarbon-based groups with the proviso that at least 50% ofall R² are chosen from C₃₀ to C₄₂ hydrocarbon-based groups;

[0047] - R³, which are identical or different, are each chosen fromorganic groups comprising atoms chosen from carbon atoms, hydrogenatoms, oxygen atoms and nitrogen atoms with the proviso that R³comprises at least 2 carbon atoms; and

[0048] - R⁴, which are identical or different, are each chosen fromhydrogen atoms, C₁ to C₁₀ alkyl groups and a direct bond to at least onegroup chosen from R³ and another R⁴ such that when said at least onegroup is chosen from another R⁴, the nitrogen atom to which both R³ andR⁴ are bonded forms part of a heterocyclic structure defined in part byR⁴-N-R³, with the proviso that at least 50% of all R⁴ are chosen fromhydrogen atoms.

[0049] In one embodiment, the at least one terminal fatty chain offormula (I) is linked to the last hetero atom, in this case nitrogen, ofthe polyamide skeleton. In a further embodiment, the terminal chains arefunctionalized. In another embodiment, the ester groups of formula (I),are linked to the terminal and/or pendant fatty chains, represent from15% to 40% of the total number of ester and amide groups (i.e.heteroatom groups), such as, for example, from 20% to 35%.

[0050] In one embodiment, n may be an integer ranging from 1 to 10, forexample 1 to 5, and as a further example, an integer ranging from 3 to5. In the present invention, R¹, which are identical or different, can,for example, each be chosen from C₁₂ to C₂₂ alkyl groups, such as fromC₁₆ to C₂₂ alkyl groups.

[0051] In the present invention, R², which are identical or different,can, for example, each be chosen from C₁₀ to C₄₂ alkyl groups. At least50% of all R², which are identical or different, can, for example, eachbe chosen from groups comprising from 30 to 42 carbon atoms. At least75% of all R², which are identical or different, can, for example, eachbe chosen from groups comprising from 30 to 42 carbon atoms. In the twoaforementioned embodiments, the remaining R², which are identical ordifferent, can, for example, each be chosen from C₄ to C₁₉ groups, suchas C₄ to C₁₂ groups.

[0052] R³, which can be identical or different, can, for example, eachbe chosen from C₂ to C₃₆ hydrocarbon-based groups and polyoxyalkylenegroups. In another example, R³, which can be identical or different, caneach, for example, be chosen from C₂ to C₁₂ hydrocarbon-based groups. Inanother embodiment, R⁴, which can be identical or different, can each bechosen from hydrogen atoms.

[0053] As used herein, hydrocarbon-based groups may be chosen fromlinear, cyclic and branched, and saturated and unsaturated groups. Thehydrocarbon-based groups can be chosen from aliphatic and aromaticgroups. In one example, the hydrocarbon-based groups are chosen fromaliphatic groups. The alkyl and alkylene groups may be chosen fromlinear, cyclic and branched, and saturated and unsaturated groups.

[0054] In general, the pendant and terminal fatty chains may be chosenfrom linear, cyclic and branched, and saturated and unsaturated groups.The pendant and terminal fatty chains can be chosen from aliphatic andaromatic groups. In one example, the pendant and terminal fatty chainsare chosen from aliphatic groups.

[0055] According to the invention, the structuring of the liquid fattyphase is obtained with the aid of at least one structuring polymer, suchas the at least one polymer of formula (I). The at least one polyamidepolymer of formula (I) may, for example, be in the form of a mixture ofpolymers, and this mixture may also comprise a compound of formula (I)wherein n is equal to zero, i.e., a diester.

[0056] Non-limiting examples of at least one polyamide polymer which maybe used in the composition according to the present invention includethe commercial products sold or made by Arizona Chemical under the namesUniclear 80 and Uniclear 100. These are sold, respectively, in the formof an 80% (in terms of active material) gel in a mineral oil and a 100%(in terms of active material) gel. These polymers have a softening pointranging from 88°C to 94°C, and may be mixtures of copolymers derivedfrom monomers of (i) C₃₆ diacids and (ii) ethylenediamine, and have aweight-average molecular mass of about 6000. Terminal ester groupsresult from esterification of the remaining acid end groups with atleast one alcohol chosen from cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. Amixture of cetyl and stearyl alcohols is sometimes called cetylstearylalcohol.

[0057] Other non-limiting examples of at least one polyamide polymerwhich may be used in the composition according to the present inventioninclude polyamide polymers (or polyamide resins) resulting from thecondensation of at least one aliphatic dicarboxylic acid and at leastone diamine, the carbonyl and amine groups being condensed via an amidebond. Examples of these polyamide polymers are those sold or made underthe brand name Versamid by the companies General Mills Inc. and HenkelCorp. (Versamid 930, 744 or 1655) or by the company Olin MathiesonChemical Corp. under the brand name Onamid, in particular Onamid S or C.These resins have a weight-average molecular mass ranging from 6000 to9000. For further information regarding these polyamides, reference maybe made to U.S. Patent Nos. 3,645,705 and 3,148,125, the disclosures ofwhich are hereby incorporated by reference.

[0058] Other examples of polyamides include those sold by the companyArizona Chemical under the references Uni-Rez (2658, 2931, 2970, 2621,2613, 2624, 2665, 1554, 2623 and 2662) and the product sold or madeunder the reference Macromelt 6212 by the company Henkel. For furtherinformation regarding these polyamides, reference may be made to U.S.Patent No. 5,500,209, the disclosure of which is hereby incorporated byreference. Such polyamides display high melt viscosity characteristics.MACROMELT 6212, for example, has a high melt viscosity at 190°C of 30-40poise (as measured by a Brookfield Viscometer, Model RVF #3 spindle, 20RPM).

[0059] In a further embodiment, the at least one polyamide polymer maybe chosen from polyamide resins from vegetable sources. Polyamide resinsfrom vegetable sources may be chosen from, for example, the polyamideresins of U.S. Patent Nos. 5,783,657 and 5,998,570, the disclosures ofwhich are herein incorporated by reference.

[0060] The at least one structuring polymer in the composition of theinvention may have a softening point greater than 50°C, such as from65°C to 190°C, and preferably less than 150°C, and further such as from70°C to 130°C, and even further such as from 80°C to 105°C. Thissoftening point may be lower than that of structuring polymers used inthe art which may facilitate the use of the at least one structuringpolymer of the present invention and may limit the degradation of theliquid fatty phase. These polymers may be non waxy polymers. Thesoftening point can be measured by a well known method as "DifferentialScanning Calorimetry (i.e. DSC method) with a temperature rise of 5 to10°C/min.

[0061] In one embodiment, the at least one polyamide polymer may bepresent in the composition in an amount ranging, for example, from 0.5%to 80%, such as from 2% to 60%, further such as from 5% to 40%, byweight relative to the total weight of the composition. In a furtherembodiment the at least one polyamide polymer may be present in thecomposition in an amount ranging, for example, from 5% to 25% by weightrelative to the total weight of the composition.

[0062] In one embodiment, the at least one structuring polymer in thecomposition according to the invention corresponds to the polyamidepolymers of formula (I). Due to fatty chain(s), these polymers may bereadily soluble in oils and thus lead to compositions that aremacroscopically homogeneous even with a high content (at least 25%) ofat least one structuring polymer.

[0063] In one embodiment, when the at least one structuring polymer ofthe present invention comprises a urea urethane having the followingformula:

[0064] R-O-CO-NH-R'-NH-CO-NH-R"-NH-CO-NH-R'-NH-CO-OR

[0065] then R represents C_(n)H_(2n+1) ⁻, wherein n represents aninteger having a value greater than 22, for example from 23 to 120, andfurther, for example from 23 to 68, or C_(m)H_(2m+1) (OC_(p)H_(2p))_(r)-, wherein m represents an integer having a value of greater than 18,for example, from 19 to 120, and further, for example, from 23 to 68, prepresents an integer having a value of from 2 to 4, and r represents aninteger having a value of from 1 to 10.,

[0066] R' represents:

[0067]

[0068] and R'' represents:

[0069]

[0070] In another embodiment of the invention, the at least onestructuring polymer is not a urea urethane of the formula:

[0071] R-O-CO-NH-R'-NH-CO-NH-R"-NH-CO-NH-R'-NH-CO-OR

[0072] wherein R represents C_(n)H_(2n+1) ⁻ or C_(m)H_(2m+1)(C_(p)H_(2p)O)_(r) -; n represents an integer having a value of from 4to 22; m represents an integer having a value of from 1 to 18; prepresents an integer having a value of from 2 to 4; and r represents aninteger having a value of from 1 to 10.

[0073] R' represents:

[0074]

[0075] and R" represents:

[0076]

[0077] In another embodiment, the present invention is drawn to astructured composition comprising at least one solid substance that hasa melting point of about 45°C, for example about 47°C, or greater, andat least one liquid fatty phase structured with at least one structuringpolymer comprising a polymer skeleton comprising at least onehydrocarbon-based repeating unit comprising at least one hetero atom,wherein the at least one structuring polymer further comprises at leastone terminal fatty chain, optionally functionalized, chosen from alkylchains and alkenyl chains, wherein said at least one terminal fattychain is bonded to said polymer skeleton via at least one linking groupchosen from amides, ureas, and esters, wherein when said at least onelinking group is chosen from esters, said at least one terminal fattychain is chosen from branched alkyl groups. The at least one structuringpolymer may also comprise at least one pendant fatty chain, optionallyfunctionalized, chosen from alkyl chains and alkenyl chains, bonded toany carbon or hetero atom of the polymer skeleton via at least onelinking group chosen from amides, ureas, and esters, wherein when saidat least one linking group is chosen from esters, said at least onependant fatty chain is chosen from branched alkyl groups. The at leastone structuring polymer may comprise both at least one pendant fattychain and at least one terminal fatty chain as defined above in thisparagraph.

[0078] Further, an embodiment of the invention relates to a skin lip, orkeratinous fiber care or make-up composition comprising a structuredcomposition containing at least one liquid fatty phase structured withat least one structuring polymer comprising a polymer skeletoncomprising at least one hydrocarbon-based repeating unit comprising atleast one hetero atom and at least one solid substance that has amelting point of about 45°C, for example about 47°C, or greater. Inanother embodiment, the invention relates to a lipstick composition instick form comprising at least one continuous liquid fatty phase, atleast one solid substance that has a melting point of about 45°C, forexample, about 47°C or greater, and at least one non- waxy structuringpolymer having a weight-average molecular mass of less than 100,000.

[0079] Additionally, an embodiment of the invention relates to a skin,lip, or keratinous fiber care or make-up composition comprising astructured composition containing at least one liquid fatty phasestructured with at least one structuring polymer comprising a polymerskeleton comprising at least one hydrocarbon-based repeating unitcomprising at least one hetero atom, at least one solid substance thathas a melting point of about 45°C, for example about 47°C, or greater,and at least one coloring agent.

[0080] Additionally, an embodiment of the invention relates to a methodof making up skin, lips, or keratinous fibers or caring for skin, lips,or keratinous fibers comprising applying to said skin, lips, orkeratinous fibers a structured composition containing at least oneliquid fatty phase structured with at least one structuring polymercomprising a polymer skeleton comprising at least one hydrocarbon-basedrepeating unit comprising at least one hetero atom and at least onesolid substance that has a melting point of about 45°C, for exampleabout 47°C, or greater.

Solid Substance with a Melting Point of about 45@$ordm;C or Greater

[0081] As defined here, a solid substance having a melting point ofabout 45°C or greater is a compound that is a solid at room temperature(25°C) ras and undergoes a reversible solid/liquid change of state atabout 45°C, for example about 47°C, or greater, and at atmosphericpressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 101 KPa). The at least one solid substance may,for example, have a melting point of about 50°C or greater. In oneembodiment, the at least one solid substance is an organic solidsubstance having a melting point of about 45°C, for example about 47°C,or greater.

[0082] Such compounds are rheological agents, for example non tintedrheological agents. Such compounds include, but are not limited to,waxes, fillers, glitters, and solid polymers. In one embodiment, afiller is chosen from powders, polyamide (Nylon®), polymethylthacrylate(PMMA) crosspolymers, and silicas. In a further embodiment, the solidsubstance has a melting point of about 50°C to about 250°C, such as fromabout 60°C to about 200°C. A solid substance for use in the practice ofthe invention may comprise at least one crystallizable portion, howevercrystallization is not a limitation. The melting point is measured byDSC (Differential Scanning Calorimetry) with a rate of increase intemperature of 5°C or 10°C per minute. The melting point corresponds tothe peak of the DSC curve.

[0083] In one embodiment, the solid substance is a wax. As used herein,a "wax" may be any lipophilic fatty compound. It may be possible to makea wax miscible with oils by bringing the wax to its melting point, and,thereby, to form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but once themixture has returned to room temperature, recrystallization of the waxoccurs.

[0084] For the purposes of the invention, waxes may be chosen from anywax that meets the criteria described herein. Non-limiting examples ofsuch waxes include waxes of natural origin, such as beeswax, carnaubawax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, Japan wax, cork fiber wax, sugar canewax, paraffin waxes, lignite wax, microcrystalline waxes, lanolin wax,montan wax and ozokerites, hydrogenated oils such as hydrogenated jojobaoil, waxes of synthetic origin, such as polyethylene waxes derived frompolymerization or copolymerization of ethylene, waxes obtained byFischer-Tropsch synthesis, tetrastearate di-(trimethylol-1,1,1 propane)as the one sold or made under the name HEST 2T-4S by Heterene, fattyacid esters and glycerides, and silicone waxes, such as derivatives ofpoly(di)methylsiloxane, including esterified silicon waxes.

[0085] For the purposes of the invention, solid polymer serving asrheological agent is any lipophilic polymeric fatty compound. It may bepossible to make a solid polymer miscible with oils by bringing thesolid polymer to its melting point, and, thereby, to form amicroscopically homogeneous mixture, but once the mixture has returnedto room temperature, solidification of the mixture (solid polymer +oils) occurs for example by recrystallization of the solid polymer.

[0086] In one embodiment, the solid polymer serving as rheological agentis an organic semi-crystallized polymer comprising a) a polymericskeleton and b) at least one organic crystallizable side-chain or atleast one organic crystallizable sequence which is a part of saidskeleton. In one embodiment, this solid polymer has a weight-averagemolecular mass more than 2 000 and less than 100 000. For example, thissolid polymer has a weight-average molecular mass from 4 000 to 99 000.

[0087] In one embodiment, the solid polymer serving as rheological agentis chosen from homopolymers or copolymers having at least one side-chaincrystallizable, such as those disclosed in the US patent n° 5 156 911,disclosure of which is herein incorporated by reference.

[0088] The concentrations of the at least one solid substance and of theat least one structuring polymer may be chosen according to the desiredhardness and desired stability of the compositions and according to thespecific application envisaged. The respective concentrations of the atleast one structuring polymer and of the at least one solid substancecan be such that a disintegrable solid which does not flow under its ownweight is obtained.

[0089] Depending on the intended application, such as a stick, hardnessof the composition may also be considered. The hardness of a compositionmay, for example, be expressed in grams (g). The composition of thepresent invention may, for example, have a hardness ranging from 20 gfto 2000 gf, such as from 20 gf to 900 gf, and further such as from 20 gfto 600 gf.

[0090] This hardness is measured in one of two ways. A first test forhardness is according to a method of penetrating a probe into saidcomposition and in particular using a texture analyzer (for exampleTA-XT2i from Rhéo) equipped with an ebonite cylinder of height 25 mm anddiameter 8 mm. The hardness measurement is carried out at 20°C at thecenter of 5 samples of said composition. The cylinder is introduced intoeach sample of composition at a pre-speed of 2 mm/s and then at a speedof 0.5 mm/s and finally at a post-speed of 2 mm/s, the totaldisplacement being 1 mm. The recorded hardness value is that of themaximum peak observed. The measurement error is ±50gf.

[0091] The second test for hardness is the "cheese wire" method OSlwhich involves cutting an 8.1 mm or preferably 12.7 mm in diameter ofcomposition and measuring its hardness at 20°C using a DFGHS 2 tensiletesting machine from Indelco-Chatillon Co. at a speed of 100 mm/minute.The hardness value from this method is expressed in grams as the shearforce required to cut a stick under the above conditions. According tothis method, the hardness of compositions according to the presentinvention which may be in stick form may, for example, range from 30 gfto 300 gf, such as from 30 gf to 250 gf, and further such as from 30 gfto 200 gf.

[0092] The hardness of the composition of the present invention may besuch that the compositions are self-supporting and can easilydisintegrate to form a satisfactory deposit on a keratinous material. Inaddition, this hardness may impart good impact strength to the inventivecompositions which may be molded or cast, for example, in stick or dishform.

[0093] The skilled artisan may choose to evaluate a composition using atleast one of the tests for hardness outlined above based on theapplication envisaged and the hardness desired. If one obtains anacceptable hardness value, in view of the intended application, from atleast one of these hardness tests, the composition falls within thescope of the invention.

[0094] According to the present invention, the compositions in stickform may also possess the properties of deformable, flexible elasticsolids and may also have noteworthy elastic softness upon application toa keratinous material. The compositions in stick form of the prior artdo not have this elasticity and flexibility.

[0095] The at least one structuring polymer may be present in aconcentration ranging from 0.5% to 80% by weight of the total weight ofthe composition, such as from 5% to 40%. The at least one solidsubstance may be present in a concentration of at least 3% by weight ofthe total weight of the composition, such as, for example, greater than5%; further examples include from 5% to 70% by weight of the totalweight of the composition, from 10% to 60% and from 10% to 50%.

Liquid fatty phase

[0096] The at least one liquid fatty phase, in one embodiment, maycomprise at least one oil. In one embodiment, at least one oil has anaffinity with the structuring polymer and/or with the solid substance.The at least one oil, for example, may be chosen from polar oils andapolar oils including hydrocarbon-based liquid oils and oily liquids atroom temperature. In one embodiment, the composition of the inventioncomprises at least one structuring polymer and at least one polar oil.The polar oils of the invention, for example, may be added to the apolaroils, the apolar oils acting in particular as co-solvent for the polaroils.

[0097] According to the invention, the structuring of the at least oneliquid fatty phase may, for example, be obtained with the aid of atleast one polymer of formula (I). In general, the polymers of formula(I) may be in the form of mixtures of polymers, these mixtures alsopossibly containing a synthetic product corresponding to a compound offormula (I) in which n is 0, i.e., a diester.

[0098] The liquid fatty phase of the composition may contain more than30%, for example, more than 40%, of liquid oil(s) containing a groupsimilar to that of the units containing a hetero atom of the structuringpolymer, and for example from 50% to 100%. In one embodiment, the liquidfatty phase structured with a polyamide-type skeleton contains a highquantity, i.e., greater than 30%, for example greater than 40% relativeto the total weight of the liquid fatty phase, or from 50% to 100%, ofat least one apolar, such as hydrocarbon-based, oil. For the purposes ofthe invention, the expression "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oilessentially comprising carbon and hydrogen atoms, optionally with atleast one group chosen from hydroxyl, ester, carboxyl, or ether groups.

[0099] For a liquid fatty phase structured with a polymer containing apartially silicone-based skeleton, this fatty phase may contain morethan 30%, for example, more than 40%, relative to the total weight ofthe liquid fatty phase and, for example, from 50% to 100%, of at leastone silicone-based liquid oil, relative to the total weight of theliquid fatty phase.

[0100] For a liquid fatty phase structured with an apolar polymer of thehydrocarbon-based type, this fatty phase may contain more than 30%, forexample more than 40% by weight, or from 50% to 100% by weight, of atleast one liquid apolar, such as hydrocarbon-based, oil, relative to thetotal weight of the liquid fatty phase.

[0101] For example, the at least one polar oil useful in the inventionmay be chosen from:

[0102] - hydrocarbon-based plant oils with a high content oftriglycerides comprising fatty acid esters of glycerol in which thefatty acids may have varied chain lengths from C₄ to C₂₄, these chainspossibly being chosen from linear and branched, and saturated andunsaturated chains; these oils are chosen from, for example, wheat germoil, corn oil, sunflower oil, karite butter, castor oil, sweet almondoil, macadamia oil, apricot oil, soybean oil, cotton oil, alfalfa oil,poppy oil, pumpkin oil, sesame oil, marrow oil, rapeseed oil, avocadooil, hazelnut oil, grape seed oil, blackcurrant seed oil, eveningprimrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, olive oil, rye oil,safflower oil, candlenut oil, passion flower oil and musk rose oil; oralternatively caprylic/capric acid triglycerides such as those sold byStearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and818 by Dynamit Nobel;

[0103] - synthetic oils or esters of formula R₅COOR₆ in which R₅ ischosen from linear and branched fatty acid residues containing from 1 to40 carbon atoms and R₆ is chosen from, for example, a hydrocarbon-basedchain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, on condition that R₅ + R₆≥10, such as, for example, purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate),isononyl isononanoate, C₁₂-C₁₅ alkyl benzoates, isopropyl myristate,2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate and alkyl or polyalkyloctanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates; hydroxylated esters such asisostearyl lactate and diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters;

[0104] - synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms;

[0105] - C₈ to C₂₆ fatty alcohols such as oleyl alcohol; and

[0106] - C₈ to C₂₆ fatty acids such as oleic acid, linolenic acid orlinoleic acid.

[0107] The at least one apolar oil according to the invention is chosenfrom, for example, silicone oils chosen from volatile and non-volatile,linear and cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) that are liquid at roomtemperature; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groupswhich are pendant and/or at the end of the silicone chain, the groupseach containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenylsilicones such asphenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyltrisiloxanes and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates; hydrocarbonschosen from linear and branched, volatile and non-volatile hydrocarbonsof synthetic and mineral origin, such as volatile liquid paraffins (suchas isoparaffins and isododecane) or non-volatile liquid paraffins andderivatives thereof, liquid petrolatum, liquid lanolin, polydecenes,hydrogenated polyisobutene such as hydrogenated polybutene, e.g.,Parleam® from Nippon Oil Fats and squalane; and mixtures thereof. Thestructured oils, for example those structured with polyamides such asthose of formula (I) or the polyurethanes or polyureas orpolyurea-urethanes, may be, in one embodiment, apolar oils, such as anoil or a mixture of hydrocarbon oils chosen from those of mineral andsynthetic origin, chosen from hydrocarbons such as alkanes such asParleam® oil, isoparaffins including isododecane, and squalane, andmixtures thereof. These oils may, in one embodiment, be combined with atleast one phenylsilicone oil.

[0108] The liquid fatty phase, in one embodiment, contains at least onenon-volatile oil chosen from, for example, hydrocarbon-based oils ofmineral, plant and synthetic origin, synthetic esters or ethers,silicone oils and mixtures thereof.

[0109] In practice, the total liquid fatty phase may be present, forexample, in an amount ranging from 1% to 99% by weight relative to thetotal weight of the composition; further examples include ranges of 5%to 99%, 5% to 95.5%, 10% to 80%, and 20% to 75%.

[0110] For the purposes of the invention, the expression "volatilesolvent or oil" means any non-aqueous medium capable of evaporating oncontact with the skin or the lips in less than one hour at roomtemperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile solvent(s) of theinvention is(are) organic solvents, such as volatile cosmetic oils thatare liquid at room temperature, having a non-zero vapor pressure, atroom temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from10⁻² to 300 mmHg (1.33 to 40 000 Pa) and, for example, greater than 0.03mmHg (40 Pa) and for example greater than 0.3 mmHg (40 Pa). Theexpression "non-volatile oil" means an oil which remains on the skin orthe lips at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at leastseveral hours, such as those having a vapor pressure of less than 10⁻²mmHg (1.33 Pa).

[0111] According to the invention, these volatile solvents mayfacilitate the staying power or long wearing properties of thecomposition on the skin, the lips or superficial body growths such asnails and keratineous fibers. The solvents can be chosen fromhydrocarbon-based solvents, silicone solvents optionally comprisingalkyl or alkoxy groups that are pendant or at the end of a siliconechain, and a mixture of these solvents.

[0112] The volatile oil(s), in one embodiment, is present in an amountranging from 0% to 95.5% relative to the total weight of thecomposition, such as from 2% to 75% or, for example, from 10% to 45%.This amount will be adapted by a person skilled in the art according tothe desired staying power or long wearing properties.

[0113] In one embodiment, the compositions of the invention areanhydrous. The at least one liquid fatty phase of the composition of theinvention may further comprises a dispersion of lipid vesicles. Thecomposition of the invention may also, for example, be in the form of afluid anhydrous gel, a rigid anhydrous gel, a fluid simple emulsion, afluid multiple emulsion, a rigid simple emulsion or a rigid multipleemulsion. The simple emulsion or multiple emulsion may comprise acontinuous phase chosen from an aqueous phase optionally containingdispersed lipid vesicles, or a fatty phase optionally containingdispersed lipid vesicles. In one embodiment, the composition has acontinuous oily phase or fatty phase and is more specifically ananhydrous composition, for example, a stick or dish form. An anhydrouscomposition is one that has less than 10% water by weight, such as, forexample, less than 5% by weight.

Additional additive

[0114] The compositions of the invention may further comprise at leastone additional fatty material. The at least one additional fattymaterial may, for example, be chosen from gums, liposoluble orlipodispersible gelling agents, fatty materials pasty or viscous atambient temperature, and resins.

[0115] The composition of the present invention may also furthercomprise at least one suitable additive commonly used in the fieldconcerned chosen from coloring agents, antioxidants, essential oils,preserving agents, fragrances, neutralizing agents, liposolublepolymers, dispersants and cosmetically active agents and dermatologicalactive agents such as, for example, emollients, moisturizers, vitamins,essential fatty acids and sunscreens, and mixtures thereof. The at leastone additive is generally present in a concentration ranging up to 20%by weight of the total weight of the composition, such as up to 10%, forexample from 0.01 to 10%. The compositions of the present invention mayalso further comprise water, water, optionally thickened with anaqueous-phase thickener, or gelled with a hydrophilic gelling agentand/or containing ingredients soluble in water. The water can representsform 0.01% to 50% for example from 0.5% to 30% relative to the totalweight of the composition.

[0116] The composition can also contains at least one active agent, i.e.an agent having a beneficial effect on the skin, lips or body growths.

[0117] Needless to say, the person skilled in the art will take care toselect the optional additional additives and the amount thereof suchthat at least one advantageous property of the composition according tothe invention, such as stability, non-migration, is not, or is notsubstantially, adversely affected by the addition(s) envisaged.

[0118] The composition according to the invention can be in the form ofa tinted or non tinted care composition for keratin materials such asthe skin, the lips and superficial body growths. Then it can be used,for example, as a care base for the skin, superficial body growths orthe lips, for example, lips balms for protecting the lips against coldand/or sunlight and/or wind, or care cream for the skin (body and face).

[0119] The composition of the invention may be also in the form of acolored make-up product for the skin, such as a foundation, aneyeshadow, a concealer, an eyeliner, a make-up for the body; a make-upfor the lips such as lipgloss or lipstick ; a make-up for eyelashes, forexample in a form of mascara cake, or for the eyebrows, for example inthe form of pencil.

[0120] The compositions of the invention may also comprise at least onecoloring agent chosen from pigments, dyes, nacreous pigments (i.e.nacres), and pearling agents. The at least one coloring agent may bechosen, for example, in order to obtain make-up compositions which givegood coverage, that is, which do not leave a significant amount of theat least one keratin material to which it is applied showing through.The pigments may also reduce the sticky feel of the compositions, unlikesoluble dyes.

[0121] Representative liposoluble dyes which may be used according tothe present invention include Sudan red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6,β-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DCOrange 5, annatto, and quinoline yellow. The liposolube dyes, whenpresent, generally have a concentration ranging up to 20% by weight ofthe total weight of the composition, such as from 0.1% to 6%.

[0122] The pigments which may be used according to the present inventionmay be chosen from white, colored, mineral, organic, coated and uncoatedpigments. Representative examples of mineral pigments include titaniumdioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium oxide, zinc oxide, ceriumoxide, iron oxides, chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue,chromium hydrate and ferric blue. Representative examples of organicpigments include carbon black, pigments of D & C type, and lakes basedon cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium and aluminum. Ifpresent, the pigments may have a concentration ranging up to 40% byweight of the total weight of the composition, and for example up to50%, such as from 1% to 35%, and further such as from 2% to 25%. In thecase of a face powder product, the pigments, including nacreouspigments, may, for example, represent up to 90% by weight of thecomposition.

[0123] The nacreous pigments (or nacres) which may be used according tothe present invention may be chosen from white nacreous pigments such asmica coated with titanium or with bismuth oxychloride, colored nacreouspigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica withferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigmentchosen from those mentioned above, and nacreous pigments based onbismuth oxychloride. The nacres, if present, may have a concentrationranging up to 30% by weight of the total weight of the composition, suchas from 0.1% to 20%.

[0124] In one embodiment, the coloring agents is a pigment (nacreous ornot).

[0125] The composition according to the present invention may bemanufactured by one of ordinary skill in the art. For example, they maybe manufactured by a process which comprises heating the at least onestructuring polymer at least to its softening point, adding the at leastone solid substance, in one embodiment in a melted form, and anysuitable additives, if present, to the at least one structuring polymerfollowed by mixing the composition. The resultant homogeneous mixturemay then be cast or poured in a suitable mold such as a lipstick mold,foundation mold, or deodorant mold or cast directly into the packagingarticles such as a case or a dish.

[0126] The present invention is also directed to a cosmetic process forcaring for, making up or treating a keratin material, such as that of ahuman being, and further such as human skin, lips, hair, eyebrows,nails, and eyelashes, comprising the application to a keratin materialof a cosmetic composition comprising a liquid fatty phase comprising atleast one structuring polymer, as defined herein, such as at least onestructuring polymer comprising a polyamide skeleton. The polyamideskeleton comprises at least one end group with at least one chain chosenfrom alkyl chains comprising at least four carbon atoms and alkenylchains comprising at least four carbon atoms, bonded to the at least onepolyamide skeleton via at least one linking group. The polyamideskeleton may comprise at least one pendant group with at least one chainchosen from alkyl chains, for example, alkyl chains comprising at leastfour carbon atoms, and alkenyl chains, for example alkenyl chainscomprising at least four carbon atoms, bonded to any carbon or nitrogenof the polyamide skeleton via at least one linking group. The polyamideskeleton may also comprise at least one said end group and at least onesaid pendant group. The at least one structuring polymer is present inan amount effective to provide structure to said fatty phase. Thecomposition further comprises at least one solid substance that has amelting point of about 45°C, for example about 47°C, or greater. The atleast one structuring polymer and the at least one solid substance arepresent in a combined amount to provide the composition with stability,as previously defined herein.

[0127] In another embodiment, the present invention is directed to aprocess of making a cosmetic composition in the form of aphysiologically acceptable composition comprising including in saidcomposition at least one liquid fatty phase, said at least one liquidfatty phase being structured with at least one structuring polymercomposition comprising a polyamide skeleton. The polyamide skeletoncomprises at least one end group with at least one chain chosen fromalkyl chains, for example alkyl chains comprising at least four carbonatoms and alkenyl chains, for example alkenyl chains comprising at leastfour carbon atoms, bonded to the at least one polyamide skeleton via atleast one linking group. The polyamide skeleton may further comprise atleast one pendant group with at least one chain chosen from alkylchains, for example, alkyl chains comprising at least four carbon atomsand alkenyl chains, for example alkenyl chains comprising at least fourcarbon atoms, bonded to any carbon or nitrogen of the polyamide skeletonvia at least one linking group. The at least one structuring polymer ispresent in an amount effective to provide structure to said fatty phase.The composition further comprises at least one solid substance that hasa melting point of about 45°C, for example about 47°C, or greater. Theat least one structuring polymer and the at least one solid substanceare present in a combined amount to provide the composition withstability, as previously defined herein.

[0128] The invention will be illustrated by, but is not intended to belimited to, the following examples. The amount are given a percentage bymass.

Example 1: Anhydrous Compact Foundation

[0129] An anhydrous compact composition was prepared using the followingingredients.

[0130] Isostearyl Neopentanoate qsp 100% Isononyl Isononanoate 15% IronOxides 3.4% Titanium Dioxide Anatase Form 10.6% Methylparaben 0.2% Talc8.3% Kaolin 3% Titanium Dioxide treated with Dimethicone 5% Polyethylenewax MW 500 (weight avg. molecular weight) 5.7% Uniclear 100 7.4%Polymethyl Methacrylate 4% PTFE 4% Oct Idodecanol 4.4%

[0131]

[0132]Preparation: The Uniclear 100 was solubilized (or dissolved), at100°C, in a mixture of melted oils and wax, followed by addition of thepigments and fillers. The whole was mixed using a deflocculatingturbomixer (Raynerie).

[0133] The stability of the composition was tested using the testdescribed herein. The composition was found to have good stability inthat there was no exudation at room temperature, at 45°C and at 47°C,both at one month and at eight weeks.

Example 2: Lip Stick

[0134] A lip stick composition was prepared using the followingingredients.

[0135] Isononyl Isononanoate gsp 100% Uniclear 100 15% DiisostearylMalate 12% Polyethylene wax 12% Polyglyceryl-2 Diisostearate 5.9% IronOxides 4% Nylon-12 4% Red 7 Lake 1.8% Titanium Dioxide 1.2% BariumSulfate 0.6% Rosin/Colophonium 0.6%

[0136]

[0137]Preparation: The Uniclear 100 was solubilized (or dissolved), at100°C, in a mixture of melted oils and wax, followed by addition of thepigments and fillers. The whole was mixed using a deflocculatingturbomixer (Raynerie) and then case in lipstick molds.

[0138] The stability of the composition was tested using the testdescribed herein. The composition was found to have good stability inthat there was no exudation at room temperature, at 45°C and at 47°C,both at one month and at eight weeks.

Example 3: Lip Stick

[0139] A lip stick composition was prepared using the followingingredients.

[0140] PHASE A

[0141] Uniclear 100 16 %

[0142] Carnauba wax 13 %

[0143] Isononyl isonononanoate 13 %

[0144] Di-isostearylmalate 9 %

[0145] PHASE B

[0146] Hydrophobic silica 3 %

[0147] Hydrogenated poly isobutene 10.36 %

[0148] Actyldodecanol 3.52 %

[0149] PHASE C

[0150] Pigments 12 %

[0151] Liquid lanolin 14 %

[0152] Hydrogenated poly isobutene 4.64 %

[0153] Octyldodecanol 1.48 %

[0154]Procedure: The Uniclear 100 and the oils of phase A wereintroduced into a heating vessel. The mixture was placed under magneticstirring and then heated in a first stage to 100°C (to liquefy theUniclear). A mixture comprising the silica gel (phase B), preparedbeforehand, and the ground pigmentary material (phase C), which washeated beforehand to 100°C and homogenized with stirring, wasintroduced. The product obtained was placed in a heated mold (T°= 45°C)with stirring and, once setting had begun, was placed in a freezer(T°=-21°C) for 15 minutes.

[0155] a) Silica gel (phase B)

[0156] The gel was prepared, with stirring, in a Rayneri stirrer at60°C, using a hotplate, by introducing the silica portionwise into theoily mixture formed from the other phase B ingredients

[0157] b) Ground pigmentary material (phase C)

[0158] The pigments were mixed with the oil heated to 60°C; the mixturewas ground 3 times in a three-roll mill.

[0159] The sticks of lipstick had a hardness of 86 ±5 gf measured usinga "cheese wire". These sticks of lipstick broke during the measurementof the dynamic fragility carried out on 3 sticks. The fragility of thecomposition is determined by a method wherein the stick is submitted toseveral back-and-forth movements on a support for 3 minutes at a speedof 60 back-and-forth movements/minute, at 20°C. The result is defined bythe number of broken sticks with respect to the number of tested sticks.

What is Claimed is:
 1. A method of making-up eyelashes comprisingapplying to said eyelashes a mascara composition comprising: (i) atleast one solid substance that has a melting point of about 45°C orgreater; (ii) at least one fatty phase structured by at least onepolymer; (iii) at least one structuring polymer chosen from polymers offollowing formula (I):

in which n denotes a number of amide units, such that the number ofester groups represents from 10% to 50% of the total number of ester andamide groups; R¹ is, in each case, independently an alkyl or alkenylgroup having at least 4 carbon atoms; R² independently represents, ineach case, a C₄ to C₄₂ hydrocarbonaceous group, provided that 50% of theR² groups represent a C₃₀ to C₄₂ hydrocarbonaceous group; R³independently represents, in each case, an organic group provided withat least 2 carbon atoms, with hydrogen atoms and optionally with one ormore oxygen or nitrogen atoms; and R⁴ independently represents, in eachcase, a hydrogen atom, a C₁ to C₁₀ alkyl group or a direct bond to R³ oranother R⁴, so that the nitrogen atom to which both R³ and R⁴ are bondedforms part of a heterocyclic structure defined by R⁴-N-R³, with at least50% of the R⁴ groups representing a hydrogen atom; (iv) water; (v) atleast one coloring agent; and (vi) at least one preservative.
 2. Themethod of making up eyelashes according to claim 1, wherein the at leastone fatty phase comprises at least one volatile oil.
 3. The method ofmaking up eyelashes according to claim 2, wherein said at least onevolatile oil is chosen from isododecane.
 4. The method of making upeyelashes according to claim 1, further comprising at least oneneutralizing agent.
 5. A method of making up eyelashes comprisingapplying to said eyelashes a mascara composition comprising: (i) atleast one solid substance that has a melting point of about 45°C orgreater; (ii) at least one fatty phase structured by at least onepolymer; (iii) at least one structuring polymer chosen fromethylenediamine/stearyl dimer tallate copolymer; (iv) water; (v) atleast one coloring agent; and (vi) at least one preservative.
 6. Themethod of making up eyelashes according to claim 5, wherein the at leastone fatty phase comprises at least one volatile oil.
 7. The method ofmaking up eyelashes according to claim 6, wherein said at least onevolatile oil is chosen from isododecane.
 8. The method of making upeyelashes according to claim 5, further comprising at least oneneutralizing agent.